October 13, 2008
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Trekkers
“What do you reckon Rob?” Etienne asked
me one day over a couple of sherbets, “You think we could ride to Fulong?”“No problem getting there,” I replied.
“Getting back the next day might be tough on the legs!”We then argued about the altitude of the
mountains we would have to ride the mountain bikes over, and I reckoned max.
500 metres. Et, not for the first time, argued with this, suggesting that it
would more likely be 700 – 800 metres. There was only one way to resolve this
argument – take my mountain bike, complete with altimetre, from Bali all the
way to the highest point between my home and Etienne’s beach house.So one afternoon, I donned the cycling
shirt, gloves, shorts and clip shoes, prepared the XTC and headed off. The plan
was to ride the mountain bike the same way I would normally ride the Suzuki,
just a little slower perhaps. The mountains, I have to admit, I was dreading
simply because it is close on 40km from my home to Shenkung, where the mountains
start. Would I be tired by then? Would I make it all the way to the Café Monet,
which essentially is the highest point on the way?I made it in to Da Zhi with no problem,
and hit Taipei city. And then everything – literally – ground to a halt. Taiwan’s
military, apparently, had decided to do some exercises that day, which meant
the whole of the city was stopped, roads cleared so that perhaps a military
vehicle would be able to drive along it at lightning speeds. People were not
allowed to walk along the pavement, I was stopped on the bike by some officious
plod git, who told me to move behind someone else. As that person had just cut
me up to get in front of me, I suggested that
plod hassles him instead of me, but it was obviously National Annoy the
Foreigner Day, so for the next half hour, I sat on the kerb, bored, calling up
Linn to try to find out what the heck was going on.Finally the sirens sounded, and traffic
was allowed to flow once more. This, of course, meant that all the cars who had
been at a standstill for the last 30 minutes, all had to drive off so
incredibly fast, Lewis Hamilton style, to try to make up for this delay. One
kilometre later, I had overtaken most of them once more, as they got stuck in
congestion, and my old, tired legs had warmed up once more. I zipped in and out
of lanes, passing busses and cars and taxis, even cutting up the occasional
scooter, which was thoroughly deserved, as they tend not to like giving more
than 1 or 2 cm of space when they overtake. Idiots.I rode over to Muzha, past Taipei Zoo, past
Shenkung where my mouth was watering at the thought of Mr Chen’s famous stinky
tofu soup, and to the OK mart, where I stopped for drinks. I decided against
beer, opting instead for my trusty favourite of Pocari Swea t, and also a couple
of packs of some energy drink thing, which I later regretted buying.Less than a hundred metres from the OK
mart is where the mountains start, and so I shifted down a few gears, the legs
pushing hard, sweat dripping from every pore in my body, as I climbed up. A few
kilometres later I stopped for a quick break, wondering maybe if Etienne was
right, and hoping beyond hope that it was in fact me who was really correct. I
drank some of that Passion fruit flavoured energy drink, which also had some
fibre jelly in it, and damn it was disgusting. I washed it down with Pocari,
and continued on my way.After not too long, I was in Pingsi,
famous for its lanterns and also for being a former mining town. People head
there during lantern festival to write messages of hopes and wishes on the side
of a lantern, before lighting it and letting it fly in to the night sky. When
so many people get together in the town for this, the night sky is scattered
with the red lights of the lanterns, all floating off to the heavens with
wishes for the coming year.Over the bridge I went, and found a
place for more Pocari – there was no way I was going to drink that 2nd
pack of energy drink. I had reached a point of 325 metres, and then descended
to 250 metres, but now the mountain inclined once more, but I knew the worst
was over. By the time I made it to Café Monet, I was back up to just over 300
metres, and so I realised the mountains were not really anything to worry
about.I ordered my caramel milk tea at Café
Monet, sat down and called up Et, to tell him my opinion. I reckoned it was 60
km from my home so 40 km from his, to Café Monet. With the exception of one
decent sized incline, and one smaller one, it was all downhill or flat to
Fulong from there, another 30 or so kilometres onwards.But by now, evening was starting to set
in, and so I decided to head back to Taipei. I was hungry though, having not
eaten yet that day, and as I climbed out of Pingsi, the thought of Mr Chen and
his tofu became too much for me, and the decision was made for me to eat
something there before riding home.The legs had been pumping for hours, and
by the time I made it back past the OK mart, I was beginning to struggle. 6
more km until Shenkung, and then up the Old Street, in to Mr Chen’s, who was a
little surprised to see me on a weekday, especially on the mountain bike. He
gave me dinner for free, which just shows the generosity of the man, and told
me to take care on my return back. I showed him the lights were working, and he
was a little appeased.After a rest for maybe an hour, where of
course he and I discussed many things in Chinese (Linn would be proud!
Well…maybe not!) I jumped back on the XTC and cycled my way back towards
Taipei, and slowly through the city, in to Da Zhi, Tienmu, Beitou and finally
across the Guandu bridge and back home. I was not sure how far I had actually
ridden that day, but I reckoned on 120 km. Linn and I rode the Suzuki back from
Fulong a couple of weeks later, and from Café Monet to my home is 57 km – so I
guess I was not too far off.For the next 3 days, my legs tingled,
knowing that they had had one heck of a workout. It didn’t, however, stop me
from riding up Guanyin Shan a couple of times though!
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