September 16, 2011
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The Pre-Noodle Era
Before he came to the planet, I took one of my floating days holiday off work for some pre-year-end R&R. Joanne had never before been to Sun Moon Lake, a place I have been to several times, and without doubt one of the most beautiful places in Taiwan. So it seemed like the ideal time to go – and our last opportunity as a couple to do so. So we jumped in to the Nissan just after lunch, drove down the coast, which took a lot longer than the freeway would, but we were in no hurry.
Past Hsinchu, and down towards Miaoli, where we headed inland, and crossed under the freeway, and then up the mountains to the east of Fengyuan. We stopped off at the McDonalds, Joanne needing some food, me in the mood for a chocolate sundae. Then came the fun part of the drive, along the winding roads that take you through Aboriginal country, and then in to Puli before the final climb to Sun Moon Lake. Through the small tunnel and then choosing right hand turn to the small town, the hotel I wanted to stay in though, which was where the olds and I had stayed a couple of years previously, was full. So we found a different one, on the lake front, which was in our price range, then headed out for dinner.
It was quite cold so Joanne wrapped up warm, not wanting to get ill in the final few weeks of pregnancy. I was still wearing shorts not feeling the cold quite so much, as we tucked in to some of the local food, a mix of Taiwanese and Aboriginal specialities, tofu, bin lang flower, fried noodles. Satisfied, we went for a short walk along the edge of the lake before heading back to the hotel. On the way we were greeted by a special offer for a boat trip the following morning. We wanted to do that anyway, so we took them up on the offer, which would give us the opportunity to head to all the boat stations around the lake.
The next morning greeted us with fine weather, so we headed down for breakfast. For me there was nothing that looked even remotely decent, but Joanne had a little nibble, but also was not exactly satisfied. We got to the boat stations, conveniently located next to the hotel, and waited for the boat. The throngs of Chinese tourists, who have been allowed in to the country for a preview of the land they are hoping one day to annex, like they did illegally 60 years ago with Tibet, made us realise how lucky we are to be in Taiwan, and not in China. They are loud, rude, obnoxious, and – essentially the same way as they believe the Americans to be – rather unlikable.
Our boat arrived, we were invited to get on board, and so off we went for the first leg of the journey. The station at the other side of the lake welcomed us with lots of people eating hard boiled eggs, cooked the traditional Taiwanese way, in hot spring water, so Joanne wanted one, and I ate most of it. Very nice it was too. So much for cutting down the cholesterol levels though. We took a short walk and then returned to the boat station for the 2nd leg.
That then took us to an Aboriginal village – I believe of the Thao tribe – where we had a quick drink, and a walk around, not falling in to any of the tourist traps, and decided that this was the village where we wanted to spend the next evening, so we asked a couple of hotels about prices, and figured we would return after lunch to make our decision.
The boat then took us back to the original station, where we had some french fries and a drink, before checking out of the hotel and loading the car up with our stuff – i.e. put our small bag on to the back seat.
We then drove round the lake, taking it nice an easy, stopping off at the big temple where we got some more snacks – and I believe another egg – before making it back to the Thao village, where we had a quick drive around, found a hotel we liked, but where they took so long in looking after us, we decided to leave. We then found another place which was perfect – out of the way a little, but still right on the lake, with a stunning view. he room was gorgeous, and the price totally acceptable and within budget, so that was it – done deal.
We took in a local Aboriginal show, which was obviously done for the tourists more than to keep the Thao culture alive, and then went out to explore the village, finding the place where we would have dinner that evening. Back to the hotel so Joanne could have an afternoon nap, and then – as darkness fell a walk back to the village where we had an enjoyable evening meal.
The next morning, we packed the car up once more with the small bag, headed to Starcraps for some coffee (for me!) and then took the faster way home – down the new freeway which shortens the travel time from Taichung to Puli and Sun Moon Lake by probably an hour. We had something else to do in Taipei – register our marriage in Joanne’s parents town.
And that was it – a wonderful couple of free days, our last together away as a married couple without children, and officially married in Taiwan. And some beautiful memories of one of the most magical places in Taiwan which – thanks to the throngs of Chinese – has just lost a little bit of its charm. But only a bit.
